Tuesday, June 05, 2007
Why has no-one told me before just how spectacular the scenery in Croatia is? Before my recent trip there I had a vague idea of the country as being all Eastern European concrete blocks and bleak, bland purpose built resorts.
So on the descent into Dubrovnik airport I was surprised to glimpse rolling pine wooded hillsides and tiny peaceful villages of mellow stone, red-roofed houses.
The drive from Dubrovnik to Split has to be one of the world’s best kept scenic routes and winds steeply (and scarily!) along a stunning coastline offering jawdropping views of the many picturesque islands which lay off the mainland – themselves worth a visit.
And the region of Istria in the north, home to popular tourist spots such as Pula, Opatija and Porec seriously rivals Tuscany with its beautiful green countryside, many vineyards (producing a very drinkable wine), Italian-influenced cuisine and fabulous clear sea. Venice is just a short boat ride away and Trieste is a couple hours by road.
Many savvy Europeans are snapping up properties here – less expensive than Italy, sea and ski within easy reach and, unlike Tuscany, not cluttered with communities of pretentious middle-class Brits.
For me the highlight was the ancient town of Rovinj, a charming huddle of Venetian houses on a tiny pensinsula, with narrow steep stone cobbled streets and a large open square fronting the harbour and lined with pretty cafes and restaurants.
Croatia is now definitely on my list for a return holiday visit – an honour I don’t accord to a lot of the resorts I see.
A delightful, laid back pretty little village about 12 miles from Dubrovnik set around 2 bays backed by a pine-covered hillside. The small square and waterside promenade is lined with attractive restaurants and the old part of the village is a maze of steep narrow streets leading up to an old stone mausoleum crowning the hill. Accommodation is mainly in unexceptional 1970s style package hotels but for the more independent traveller or couples I can thoroughly recommend the small but charming family-owned boutique-style Villa Pattiera which is right on the square in the heart of the village. Lovely, well-appointed room, my own private terrace overlooking the restaurants below and a great view of the sunset over the bay. The nearby church bells can be a bit noisy but didn’t wake me during the night (and I’m a light sleeper).