Monday, April 02, 2007
The upmarket town of Naples is one of the wealthiest places on the West Florida coast and positively reeks of money – there are 2 Ritz Carltons here and more than 40 golf courses. Swanky Gulf Coast Drive is lined with posh mansions and the shops on 5th street rival those of Rodeo Drive.
Tasteful though the town undoubtedly is, I found it a little anodyne and was looking forward to visiting Old Naples where I was warned the streets were narrow and the buildings old. Well everything is relative and in the New World an Old Town is one that was built mainly in the late 1950s and early 60’s (although it does apparently originate from the late 1800s). Which makes the buildings younger than the majority of their residents – and also older than one very old feeling Freelancer….
Having visited the USA several times in the last year, I’m increasingly irritated by the number of places that describe their retail outlets as ‘shoppes’. What does this mean? Is it an American plural of shop? I know in the UK it is generally a twee term for medieval-style shops (sorry, shoppes) but I’ve seen the term used in the States in modern hotels with no pretentious of ancientness and I’ve also seen a Vitamin Shoppe, a Photocopy Shoppe and a Timeshare Resale Shoppe – none of which could possibly have any roots in Merry Olde England.
Any Americans reading this: STOP IT AT ONCE.
At the far end of Sanibel, reached by a small bridge, is the tiny but exclusive island of Captiva, which is so narrow in parts you can see both the Gulf and Bay. Although retaining its small-town feel, there is enormous but understated wealth here – not to mention a few world-famous residents.
The village is small and quaint and services are limited but the beach and bay is never more than 5 minutes walk away and the major bonus is that the beaches all face West – offering fabulous sunset views, which you don’t get on Sanibel.
Beyond the village, and comprising the two thirds of Captiva's northern end, is the large and luxurious South Seas Island Resort which is brimming with facilities suitable for all the family, and boasts 2 miles of superb beaches.
A long flat causeway and a road toll of $6.00 will get you to this attractive but expensive strip of lush tropical land off Fort Myers, which is famous for its fabulous shelling beaches and home to a number of upscale but oh-so-tasteful private homes. Accommodation is largely small-scale, low-rise and pricey – although there is an RV park for the less affluent.
The beautiful beaches are long and white and have an abundance of colourful shells swept in by currents from the Gulf of Mexico – the ‘Sanibel Stoop’ is the stance of dedicated shellers who can be seen shuffling up the beach, bent over with nets and buckets in hand.
Home to over 240 species of birdlife and numerous plants, the island boasts plenty of wildlife sanctuaries and walking trails, including the “Ding Darling”National Wildlife Refuge & Bird Sanctuary.
Being an island there is a wide selection of water-based activities on offer including canoeing, kayaking, fishing and sailing, and plenty of boat trips and cruises.
Cycling is popular due to the flatness of the land, and most hotels have bikes for rent, some free of charge, although if you want to be sure of getting a bike it is best to rent and pay for one from one of the bike rental shops on the island. 2 golf courses and several tennis clubs are also on hand for the energetic.
Nightlife is pretty low key and restaurants are casual (no jackets are required anywhere) with most of the dining options stretched out along the main drag, Periwinkle Way.
Traffic is a real problem on the island due to the large number of visitors and people who live on the mainland and work on the island. The problem is there are just too many cars on the road for Sanibel's limited streets to handle, particularly between 9:00 and 10:30 am, arriving at the island and from 3:00 to 6:30 pm leaving the island. Left turns can be particularly difficult.
Don’t plan on doing any shopping here once you get past security as there is only a small newsagents and an even smaller duty free. The restaurant outlets consist of a Mexican style chilli chain, (where I encountered sullen staff, and a long wait for sludgy food) a fried chicken fast food place and a pizza outlet. Altogether nothing special…
There are a few shops in the airport itself before you go through security and a couple of restaurants include a Burger King and a Fridays.
For the majority of the year, the normally sedate West Florida coast attracts, er.. a more 'mature' visitor, and reverberates to the gentle sound of motorised wheelchairs and the soft clacking of zimmer frames, but for most of March the place goes wild with hoardes of young college students from across the country descending on the area for their annual Spring Break.
Although not as popular as Spring Break mecca, Panama City Beach in Bay County Florida (which becomes an American Ibiza for the holiday) many students nonetheless descend on the Tampa Bay area attracted by its wide, white sandy beaches, and abundant sunshine.
So if you’re planning a spring break yourself, particularly in Clearwater Beach, book well in advance as accommodation is at a premium during this time – and pack your party hat
The next time you order one of Florida’s famous ‘grouper sandwiches’ you may not be getting the real deal. State investigators bought grouper dishes at 24 restaurants and sent samples to labs for testing; 17 were found not to be grouper but hake, emperor fish and bream.
And grouper isn’t alone in being impersonated, jumbo fluke has donned the wig and dark glasses to masquerade as halibut and Chinese frozen ocean scallops are passing themselves off as fresh bay scallops.
The restaurants tested haven’t admitted to doing anything wrong, several claim they bought and paid for grouper from their suppliers, but some have reimbursed the state for the costs of the investigation and agreed not to sell any more grouper fakes.