Friday, March 09, 2007
03/2007: The Dominican Republic - booking in February
February is peak season for North Americans visiting the island – particularly around Valentines Day. I’ve just returned from Bavaro and Punta Cana where all of the hotels I visited (which was pretty much all of them) were overbooked. I witnessed a number of disgruntled guests complaining at various receptions that they hadn’t got the room, view or facilities they had paid for. The answer was always the same – we can’t move you as we are overbooked. Several hotels were also offloading guests onto neighbouring properties.
In addition, February can be very wet on the south and east coast – I was just there (in February) and it rained the entire 6 days, with the odd sunny punctuation. And when I lived on the island in Santo Domingo, I remember a couple of carnival processions (held the last weekend in February) that were washed out by torrential rain.
February is peak season for North Americans visiting the island – particularly around Valentines Day. I’ve just returned from Bavaro and Punta Cana where all of the hotels I visited (which was pretty much all of them) were overbooked. I witnessed a number of disgruntled guests complaining at various receptions that they hadn’t got the room, view or facilities they had paid for. The answer was always the same – we can’t move you as we are overbooked. Several hotels were also offloading guests onto neighbouring properties.
In addition, February can be very wet on the south and east coast – I was just there (in February) and it rained the entire 6 days, with the odd sunny punctuation. And when I lived on the island in Santo Domingo, I remember a couple of carnival processions (held the last weekend in February) that were washed out by torrential rain.
03/2007: Giving tips & gifts in the Dominican Republic
The Dominican Republic is mostly still a very poor country with a pitifully low minimum wage. If you can afford the luggage space, take a selection of small gifts to give to the maids; childrens’ clothing, crayons, pencils, small toy cars, dolls and anything connected with baseball are always welcome, also lipsticks, nail varnish and make-up. A small cash tip in US dollars is a nice and welcome way to show your appreciation at the end of your trip. It’s a good idea if leaving gifts to write a small note, so that the person on the receiving end has something to show security if challenged.
If you intend going on an outback safari (well worth it) which visits a village school, then pencils, pens and exercise books are always welcome.
The Dominican Republic is mostly still a very poor country with a pitifully low minimum wage. If you can afford the luggage space, take a selection of small gifts to give to the maids; childrens’ clothing, crayons, pencils, small toy cars, dolls and anything connected with baseball are always welcome, also lipsticks, nail varnish and make-up. A small cash tip in US dollars is a nice and welcome way to show your appreciation at the end of your trip. It’s a good idea if leaving gifts to write a small note, so that the person on the receiving end has something to show security if challenged.
If you intend going on an outback safari (well worth it) which visits a village school, then pencils, pens and exercise books are always welcome.
03/2007: Dominican men & sex tourism for women ...
Subtlety is not a key characteristic of the genetic makeup of Dominican men. If you have approximately enough chromosomes to be female, you will be whistled at, hissed at and called after. One of the popular catcalls translates as “girl, if you cook as good as you look, come into my kitchen!”. Dominican women though, consider this flattering and are, frankly, offended if they’re not harangued in the street.
And it seems many foreign female tourists now feel the same. On the plane journey out to Puerto Plata, I sat open-mouthed behind 3 women who talked graphically and at length about their various conquests on their last visit (which was a couple of months previously) and what they intended to do on this one – it was better entertainment than the film!
Subtlety is not a key characteristic of the genetic makeup of Dominican men. If you have approximately enough chromosomes to be female, you will be whistled at, hissed at and called after. One of the popular catcalls translates as “girl, if you cook as good as you look, come into my kitchen!”. Dominican women though, consider this flattering and are, frankly, offended if they’re not harangued in the street.
And it seems many foreign female tourists now feel the same. On the plane journey out to Puerto Plata, I sat open-mouthed behind 3 women who talked graphically and at length about their various conquests on their last visit (which was a couple of months previously) and what they intended to do on this one – it was better entertainment than the film!
02/2007: Popular resorts in the Dominican Republic
The north coast has some spectacular beaches, including the wide, sandy windsurfing and kiteboarding paradise of Cabarete. It also boasts a couple more local towns, Puerto Plata and Sosua, which are within easy reach of the majority of resorts and will suit visitors who like to experience a slice of traditional life and soak up some history – the first European settlements in the New World were set up here by Christopher Colombus.
The downside is the water can be quite choppy – it’s the Atlantic Ocean – and it can also be very windy at times – particularly around Cabarete.
Playa Dorada
This gated, purpose-built resort consists of 16 mostly large-scale, all-inclusive complexes built around an 18-hole golf course and which are all pretty similar in what they offer. It boasts a 5 star hotel - Casa Colonial which is the island’s only boutique hotel to be a member of the Leading Small Hotels of the World. Facilities outside the hotel compounds are limited but include a small pleasant plaza which has a couple of cafes and restaurants, an amber shop, and a few tour agents; horse and carriage rides are on offer around the resort and bikes can be hired. The long sandy beach has plenty of water sports and safe swimming – although not all of the hotels are on the beach. The small sprawling city of Puerto Plata is approximately 5 miles away and an easy trip by taxi or public minibus.
Sosua
A pleasant and colourful little beach town of around 44,000 people situated on a beautiful wide U-shaped bay and which offers a reasonable choice of hotels including the charming Victoria colonial-style hotel and the mid-range, sociable Marina Reef. Its main attraction is the long, narrow, curved pale gold-sand beach and fairly calm waters with coral reefs, making it a good choice for snorkellers and scuba divers – there are numerous dive shops, many owned by ex-pat Europeans and North Americans.
The town offers plenty of opportunities for exploring its narrow, bustling, winding streets which are lined with small shops and colmados (grocery stores) – calling into one for an ice-cold Presidente beer will make you feel like a local.
Downsides are the prostitutes and pickpockets who tend to hang around outside hotels, and the beach can get very crowded at weekends.
Cabarete
Famous for its long wide, white sand beach and coral reef-protected bay which lends itself particularly to windsurfing and kiteboarding – it hosts the World Kiteboarding championships and is one of the world’s best spots for the sport. Best months to windsurf are June to August when the water is reasonably flat, with trade and thermal winds at 15 to 25 mph - although the best waves are to be found from January to March. Plenty of other adventure sports are on offer including scuba diving, snorkelling and surfing and there are lots of schools offering tuition.
A ‘vibey’, laid-back town of around 14,000 people (many of them ex-pats), it is strung out along a busy main road and boasts a compact bustling centre of a few hip coffee bars, the obligatory Irish pub, a wide choice of small beachside restaurants & bars, a couple of dance clubs and many gift and water sports shops. The combination of water sports and lively nightlife attracts a young crowd, particularly during Cabarete Race week in June, and it suits sporty types not looking to be confined to their hotel for entertainment.
In the east coast:
Bavaro & Punta Cana
Before the advent of mass tourism and developers, this was formerly a little-inhabited coastline densely-packed with coconut groves edging miles of stunning white-sand beaches and beautiful turquoise waters – some of the country’s best beaches are here.
Accommodation is almost exclusively in large-scale, all-inclusive hotels spread out along the coast (some of which are quite isolated) and there is very little in the way of local life – the nearest city, Higuey is a 50 minute drive and quite frankly, not worth the effort.
The resort will appeal to sun worshippers and beach lovers seeking rest and relaxation and who are happy to languish within the confines of their hotel and take advantage - or not -of the many facilities and amenities that all-inclusives usually offer.
A wide array of watersports are available from scuba diving to boat trips and there are a couple of local attractions including Dolphin Island, where tourists can swim with dolphins, and the Manati Park which has permanent exhibits of birds, reptiles and fish. Horse-riding, inland safari trips and excursions on buggies and 4-wheel bikes are also on offer.
There is little in the way of shopping, apart from a few rather dull plazas in Bavaro housing some unexceptional touristy shops selling mostly brightly coloured paintings and arts and crafts. A small upmarket shopping mall, Palma Real Village has recently opened in Bavaro (there are free buses from most hotels) and is slated to have a Hard Rock Café and Tony Roma’s Ribs opening this year to complement its few expensive boutiques.
The north coast has some spectacular beaches, including the wide, sandy windsurfing and kiteboarding paradise of Cabarete. It also boasts a couple more local towns, Puerto Plata and Sosua, which are within easy reach of the majority of resorts and will suit visitors who like to experience a slice of traditional life and soak up some history – the first European settlements in the New World were set up here by Christopher Colombus.
The downside is the water can be quite choppy – it’s the Atlantic Ocean – and it can also be very windy at times – particularly around Cabarete.
Playa Dorada
This gated, purpose-built resort consists of 16 mostly large-scale, all-inclusive complexes built around an 18-hole golf course and which are all pretty similar in what they offer. It boasts a 5 star hotel - Casa Colonial which is the island’s only boutique hotel to be a member of the Leading Small Hotels of the World. Facilities outside the hotel compounds are limited but include a small pleasant plaza which has a couple of cafes and restaurants, an amber shop, and a few tour agents; horse and carriage rides are on offer around the resort and bikes can be hired. The long sandy beach has plenty of water sports and safe swimming – although not all of the hotels are on the beach. The small sprawling city of Puerto Plata is approximately 5 miles away and an easy trip by taxi or public minibus.
Sosua
A pleasant and colourful little beach town of around 44,000 people situated on a beautiful wide U-shaped bay and which offers a reasonable choice of hotels including the charming Victoria colonial-style hotel and the mid-range, sociable Marina Reef. Its main attraction is the long, narrow, curved pale gold-sand beach and fairly calm waters with coral reefs, making it a good choice for snorkellers and scuba divers – there are numerous dive shops, many owned by ex-pat Europeans and North Americans.
The town offers plenty of opportunities for exploring its narrow, bustling, winding streets which are lined with small shops and colmados (grocery stores) – calling into one for an ice-cold Presidente beer will make you feel like a local.
Downsides are the prostitutes and pickpockets who tend to hang around outside hotels, and the beach can get very crowded at weekends.
Cabarete
Famous for its long wide, white sand beach and coral reef-protected bay which lends itself particularly to windsurfing and kiteboarding – it hosts the World Kiteboarding championships and is one of the world’s best spots for the sport. Best months to windsurf are June to August when the water is reasonably flat, with trade and thermal winds at 15 to 25 mph - although the best waves are to be found from January to March. Plenty of other adventure sports are on offer including scuba diving, snorkelling and surfing and there are lots of schools offering tuition.
A ‘vibey’, laid-back town of around 14,000 people (many of them ex-pats), it is strung out along a busy main road and boasts a compact bustling centre of a few hip coffee bars, the obligatory Irish pub, a wide choice of small beachside restaurants & bars, a couple of dance clubs and many gift and water sports shops. The combination of water sports and lively nightlife attracts a young crowd, particularly during Cabarete Race week in June, and it suits sporty types not looking to be confined to their hotel for entertainment.
In the east coast:
Bavaro & Punta Cana
Before the advent of mass tourism and developers, this was formerly a little-inhabited coastline densely-packed with coconut groves edging miles of stunning white-sand beaches and beautiful turquoise waters – some of the country’s best beaches are here.
Accommodation is almost exclusively in large-scale, all-inclusive hotels spread out along the coast (some of which are quite isolated) and there is very little in the way of local life – the nearest city, Higuey is a 50 minute drive and quite frankly, not worth the effort.
The resort will appeal to sun worshippers and beach lovers seeking rest and relaxation and who are happy to languish within the confines of their hotel and take advantage - or not -of the many facilities and amenities that all-inclusives usually offer.
A wide array of watersports are available from scuba diving to boat trips and there are a couple of local attractions including Dolphin Island, where tourists can swim with dolphins, and the Manati Park which has permanent exhibits of birds, reptiles and fish. Horse-riding, inland safari trips and excursions on buggies and 4-wheel bikes are also on offer.
There is little in the way of shopping, apart from a few rather dull plazas in Bavaro housing some unexceptional touristy shops selling mostly brightly coloured paintings and arts and crafts. A small upmarket shopping mall, Palma Real Village has recently opened in Bavaro (there are free buses from most hotels) and is slated to have a Hard Rock Café and Tony Roma’s Ribs opening this year to complement its few expensive boutiques.
02/2007: Travelling like the locals in the Domincan Republic
By locals, I don’t mean the few wealthy Dominicans who speed around the roads in expensive four-wheel drives but the ordinary working population who use the local transport.
Living in Santo Domingo in the early 90s, my journey to work involved 2 ‘gua-guas’ (minibus) and a ‘carro publico’ (public car). The minibuses were often without doors and windows and it was quite common to see the ground whizzing by beneath your feet; passengers were packed in like sardines, and meringue music played at full blast at all times (fun when you’re on holiday, hell at 6.30am on your way to work). Drivers were mainly recruited from the ranks of homicidal maniacs and I developed a self-preserving ability to put myself into fatalistic trance for the majority of the trip – not easy when you’ve got someone’s elbow in your ear and most of the passengers are openly gawping at you, as foreign white women were something of a rarity in the country in those days.
As a tourist though, it can be a fun way of getting upfront and personal with the locals – as long as the distance isn’t too far!
Gua-guas
Pronounced gutturally as ‘wah-wahs’, these are small battered minibuses which ply routes between and around towns; occasionally there’ll be ones with air-conditioning which are bit more expensive, but usually it’s open windows and ‘caliente’ (hot!).
Hailed at the side of the road, gua-guas are generally contenders for an entry in the Guinness Book of Records for the most number of people squeezed into one vehicle, and you may end up with someone sitting on your lap. There’s usually no indication of the destination written on the bus, but the driver’s assistant, known as a cobrador (usually a young boy) will be hanging off the side of the bus shouting the destination; he’ll also take your money once you are inside – fares are around 30 pesos (50p).
When you want to get off, either bang the side of the vehicle, shout “la parada!” (stop!) or tap the driver on the shoulder if you can reach him.
Carros Publicos
Usually crumbling saloon-style cars which cruise set routes slowly along the side of main roads picking up short distance passengers. There’s quite a complicated sign language involved between driver and passenger; the driver will wave his hand out of the window to solicit fares and potential passengers will either flick their forefinger and thumb downwards several times to denote they want to go straight along the main road, or point their finger up and to the right or left depending on which direction they want to go in.
It’s always best to say the name of the road/place you are going to the driver before you get in, and it is polite to greet the other passengers with ‘saludos’ or ‘buenos’; expect a crush inside with at least 3 people in the front and 4-5 in the back.
The fare will usually be around 10 pesos (15p) and you pass the money to the driver once inside; to get out, just tap the driver on the shoulder and say ‘por aqui por favour’.
Motoconchos
Small motorbike taxis often seen carrying entire families or old ladies balancing bags of shopping and weaving dangerously in and out of the traffic. Best avoided at all costs, even for the most fearless of travellers as many locals and tourists are killed or seriously maimed on them each year. Not worth the risk.
By locals, I don’t mean the few wealthy Dominicans who speed around the roads in expensive four-wheel drives but the ordinary working population who use the local transport.
Living in Santo Domingo in the early 90s, my journey to work involved 2 ‘gua-guas’ (minibus) and a ‘carro publico’ (public car). The minibuses were often without doors and windows and it was quite common to see the ground whizzing by beneath your feet; passengers were packed in like sardines, and meringue music played at full blast at all times (fun when you’re on holiday, hell at 6.30am on your way to work). Drivers were mainly recruited from the ranks of homicidal maniacs and I developed a self-preserving ability to put myself into fatalistic trance for the majority of the trip – not easy when you’ve got someone’s elbow in your ear and most of the passengers are openly gawping at you, as foreign white women were something of a rarity in the country in those days.
As a tourist though, it can be a fun way of getting upfront and personal with the locals – as long as the distance isn’t too far!
Gua-guas
Pronounced gutturally as ‘wah-wahs’, these are small battered minibuses which ply routes between and around towns; occasionally there’ll be ones with air-conditioning which are bit more expensive, but usually it’s open windows and ‘caliente’ (hot!).
Hailed at the side of the road, gua-guas are generally contenders for an entry in the Guinness Book of Records for the most number of people squeezed into one vehicle, and you may end up with someone sitting on your lap. There’s usually no indication of the destination written on the bus, but the driver’s assistant, known as a cobrador (usually a young boy) will be hanging off the side of the bus shouting the destination; he’ll also take your money once you are inside – fares are around 30 pesos (50p).
When you want to get off, either bang the side of the vehicle, shout “la parada!” (stop!) or tap the driver on the shoulder if you can reach him.
Carros Publicos
Usually crumbling saloon-style cars which cruise set routes slowly along the side of main roads picking up short distance passengers. There’s quite a complicated sign language involved between driver and passenger; the driver will wave his hand out of the window to solicit fares and potential passengers will either flick their forefinger and thumb downwards several times to denote they want to go straight along the main road, or point their finger up and to the right or left depending on which direction they want to go in.
It’s always best to say the name of the road/place you are going to the driver before you get in, and it is polite to greet the other passengers with ‘saludos’ or ‘buenos’; expect a crush inside with at least 3 people in the front and 4-5 in the back.
The fare will usually be around 10 pesos (15p) and you pass the money to the driver once inside; to get out, just tap the driver on the shoulder and say ‘por aqui por favour’.
Motoconchos
Small motorbike taxis often seen carrying entire families or old ladies balancing bags of shopping and weaving dangerously in and out of the traffic. Best avoided at all costs, even for the most fearless of travellers as many locals and tourists are killed or seriously maimed on them each year. Not worth the risk.
02/2007: Hiring a car in the Dominican Republic - Don't! would be my initial advice...
Most holidaymakers in the Dominican Republic will have little cause or desire to leave the confines of their all-inclusive retreat, and for visitors wanting to see some more of this beautiful, scenic tropical island there are a wide range of good day trips available through tour operators.
For those contemplating hiring a car, it is definitely not for those with a nervous disposition and don’t even think about it unless you have some experience of driving in a no-holds-barred, foot-on-the-floor environment (and I mean Paris x 1000, not just an annoying traffic jam on the M25) and on shockingly-maintained potholed roads.
Road conditions on the island are notoriously appalling and there is no road etiquette, in fact some drivers will see it as their personal mission to run you off the road – when I lived on the island (about 2,000 years BT – Before Tourism) I often discussed with my Dominican colleagues why such lovely, laid back people turned into rabid, aggressive maniacs once behind a wheel; we concluded driving must be an unconscious psychological trigger for their pent-up stress – it affects both men and women so a surfeit of testosterone was ruled out.
Also bear in mind that the island is a big one and it could take a good three-to-four hours to get to your destination (don’t make the mistake of calculating driving distances based on UK average miles per hour) giving you very little time there before you return. Driving in the dark is not an option unless you really do have a death wish.
For example, if you are staying in Bavaro or Punta Cana and want to visit the capital Santo Domingo, it’s a good 4 hour drive passing through a couple of medium-sized towns with no signage and an then you’re faced with an almost impossible parking task in a concrete jungle, spaghetti junction-like city teeming with 3 million people, and twice as many cars, lorries, motorbikes, horses and donkey and carts.
If you are set on hiring a car and perhaps touring the island (there are still one or two non-all-inclusive hotels scattered around) then the following tips may help:
1. Buy a good map.
2. Study the map, taking great care over the neat red and blue roads.
3. Rip up the map and throw it away as those neat red lines bear NO resemblance to the chaotic, potholed mess that passes for a road system
4. Buy all the insurance that is on offer at the car rental company.
5. Learn the Spanish for “where is …..” or “which way to….”
6. Learn the Spanish for “I have a flat tyre” and where is the “Gomera” (tyre shop) of which there are many, for obvious reasons.
7. Learn not to flinch when a huge truck is bearing down on you on the wrong side of the road.
8. Learn not to be surprised when the car overtaking you on a blind bend is also being overtaken by another car.
9. Be aggressive - passive driving is not tolerated in the DR.
10. Develop a radar for potholes and road humps and learn to look in all directions at once for 360 degree overtaking.
11. If a policeman on a small motorbike hails you, don’t stop. If a policeman on a large motorbike hails you, stop and give him $20. Make sure you don’t have much more money in your wallet as he will extract this from you as well.
12. Forget all you ever learned about the highway code.
13. Have a passenger if possible to ask for directions; – road signs? Don’t make me laugh.
14. Stay in your sun lounger for 14 days.
Most holidaymakers in the Dominican Republic will have little cause or desire to leave the confines of their all-inclusive retreat, and for visitors wanting to see some more of this beautiful, scenic tropical island there are a wide range of good day trips available through tour operators.
For those contemplating hiring a car, it is definitely not for those with a nervous disposition and don’t even think about it unless you have some experience of driving in a no-holds-barred, foot-on-the-floor environment (and I mean Paris x 1000, not just an annoying traffic jam on the M25) and on shockingly-maintained potholed roads.
Road conditions on the island are notoriously appalling and there is no road etiquette, in fact some drivers will see it as their personal mission to run you off the road – when I lived on the island (about 2,000 years BT – Before Tourism) I often discussed with my Dominican colleagues why such lovely, laid back people turned into rabid, aggressive maniacs once behind a wheel; we concluded driving must be an unconscious psychological trigger for their pent-up stress – it affects both men and women so a surfeit of testosterone was ruled out.
Also bear in mind that the island is a big one and it could take a good three-to-four hours to get to your destination (don’t make the mistake of calculating driving distances based on UK average miles per hour) giving you very little time there before you return. Driving in the dark is not an option unless you really do have a death wish.
For example, if you are staying in Bavaro or Punta Cana and want to visit the capital Santo Domingo, it’s a good 4 hour drive passing through a couple of medium-sized towns with no signage and an then you’re faced with an almost impossible parking task in a concrete jungle, spaghetti junction-like city teeming with 3 million people, and twice as many cars, lorries, motorbikes, horses and donkey and carts.
If you are set on hiring a car and perhaps touring the island (there are still one or two non-all-inclusive hotels scattered around) then the following tips may help:
1. Buy a good map.
2. Study the map, taking great care over the neat red and blue roads.
3. Rip up the map and throw it away as those neat red lines bear NO resemblance to the chaotic, potholed mess that passes for a road system
4. Buy all the insurance that is on offer at the car rental company.
5. Learn the Spanish for “where is …..” or “which way to….”
6. Learn the Spanish for “I have a flat tyre” and where is the “Gomera” (tyre shop) of which there are many, for obvious reasons.
7. Learn not to flinch when a huge truck is bearing down on you on the wrong side of the road.
8. Learn not to be surprised when the car overtaking you on a blind bend is also being overtaken by another car.
9. Be aggressive - passive driving is not tolerated in the DR.
10. Develop a radar for potholes and road humps and learn to look in all directions at once for 360 degree overtaking.
11. If a policeman on a small motorbike hails you, don’t stop. If a policeman on a large motorbike hails you, stop and give him $20. Make sure you don’t have much more money in your wallet as he will extract this from you as well.
12. Forget all you ever learned about the highway code.
13. Have a passenger if possible to ask for directions; – road signs? Don’t make me laugh.
14. Stay in your sun lounger for 14 days.
02/2007: Vallnord, the 'most attractive' Andorran ski region...
The other ski region of Andorra, possibly lesser known as a mainstream destination is Vallnord. Comprising the ski sectors of Arinsal, Pal and Arcalis it really is the most attractive part of Andorra with beautiful, rugged mountain scenery everywhere you go. Now there is a new gondola in the town of La Massana up to the Arinsal-Pal skiing and the plans are that, with it’s proximity also to the skiing at Arcalis, it will become a lively hub of this whole ski region.
There is certainly more to appeal to the more advanced skier in Vallnord with some tree-lined pistes in Pal and some steeper, rocky descents in Arcalis. Rather a shame then, that to get to Arcalis from Arinsal to ski, for example, will necessitate a bus or car ride of about half an hour…but definitely well worth it to experience this away-from-it-all location. Buses are available to Arinsal, Pal and Arcalis from La Massana with a journey time of around 10 minutes. When I go back to Andorra to ski next time, I would definitely stay in la Massana to experience the whole of this beautiful area.
The other ski region of Andorra, possibly lesser known as a mainstream destination is Vallnord. Comprising the ski sectors of Arinsal, Pal and Arcalis it really is the most attractive part of Andorra with beautiful, rugged mountain scenery everywhere you go. Now there is a new gondola in the town of La Massana up to the Arinsal-Pal skiing and the plans are that, with it’s proximity also to the skiing at Arcalis, it will become a lively hub of this whole ski region.
There is certainly more to appeal to the more advanced skier in Vallnord with some tree-lined pistes in Pal and some steeper, rocky descents in Arcalis. Rather a shame then, that to get to Arcalis from Arinsal to ski, for example, will necessitate a bus or car ride of about half an hour…but definitely well worth it to experience this away-from-it-all location. Buses are available to Arinsal, Pal and Arcalis from La Massana with a journey time of around 10 minutes. When I go back to Andorra to ski next time, I would definitely stay in la Massana to experience the whole of this beautiful area.
02/2007: Skiing in Grandvalira, the largest skiing area in Andorra...
The Grandvalira ski region is the largest linked ski area in Andorra and comprises the sectors of Pas de la Casa, Soldeu, El Tarter, Canillo, Grau Roig and Porte des Neiges. Expansion has begun in the Portes des Neiges area which spans the French border with three new rail parks, plans for the largest beginners area in the Pyrenees and a new activities area.
The small village of El Tarter, despite being on the edge of the ski region and looking a bit like a building site in parts, currently has lots of potential to be an attractive resort in its own right. Grandvalira offers ideal skiing for intermediates and beginners although in good snow conditions the large area will boast greater possibilities for off-piste skiing for the more advanced, although, again, not the most challenging you will find. I found it generally an enjoyable experience, particularly as nearly all the ski access is via fast chairlifts and reduces the need to constantly take off your skis, plod up steps and get into a gondola with other sweaty folk breathing garlic over you! Chair lifts encapsulate what skiing is all about for me apart from the odd occasion (as I experienced on this last visit) when the wind gets so strong up the mountain, you nearly get blown off the chairlift! Basically, a great, ‘cruisey’ ski area…nothing special about the mountain restaurants…and take a piste map the ski signage is as confusing as hell…I’m an ex-ski guide and I still managed to get lost!
The Grandvalira ski region is the largest linked ski area in Andorra and comprises the sectors of Pas de la Casa, Soldeu, El Tarter, Canillo, Grau Roig and Porte des Neiges. Expansion has begun in the Portes des Neiges area which spans the French border with three new rail parks, plans for the largest beginners area in the Pyrenees and a new activities area.
The small village of El Tarter, despite being on the edge of the ski region and looking a bit like a building site in parts, currently has lots of potential to be an attractive resort in its own right. Grandvalira offers ideal skiing for intermediates and beginners although in good snow conditions the large area will boast greater possibilities for off-piste skiing for the more advanced, although, again, not the most challenging you will find. I found it generally an enjoyable experience, particularly as nearly all the ski access is via fast chairlifts and reduces the need to constantly take off your skis, plod up steps and get into a gondola with other sweaty folk breathing garlic over you! Chair lifts encapsulate what skiing is all about for me apart from the odd occasion (as I experienced on this last visit) when the wind gets so strong up the mountain, you nearly get blown off the chairlift! Basically, a great, ‘cruisey’ ski area…nothing special about the mountain restaurants…and take a piste map the ski signage is as confusing as hell…I’m an ex-ski guide and I still managed to get lost!
