Friday, May 19, 2006

02/2006: Marrakech: 'the best city in the world - says the taxi driver'
A bright, crisp, sunny day. I have my first excursion into the ancient Medina (the old walled city), a chatty taxi driver tells me in French that Marrakech is the best city in world to live in, “sun, snow on mountains, beautiful old city”- so far I have to agree – the views of the distant snow-capped Atlas Mountains are spectacular. He asks me where I’m from and talks angrily about the Danish caricature of the prophet Mohammed, am relieved (and surprised) to hear British papers haven’t printed it, so am off hook. Then he asks: “do you know Cat Stevens?”
Get horribly lost in a spaghetti-like maze of alleyways lined with tiny shops selling moody-looking slabs of fresh meat hanging on hooks, bowls of olives, bread, oranges, haircuts and houses (Estate agents get everywhere). I ask for directions. Everyone is friendly and helpful but directions tend to be of the “ go straight and ask again” variety. Am eventually led to a large wooden door hidden away under an arch, I knock, the door is opened a crack, I explain my mission and am refused admission on grounds of it being a private member’s club (Ksour Agafay). Get horribly lost again but by fluke end up in the entertaining Place Jeema el Fna and yes, there really are snake charmers playing horns to motionless black-hooded cobras and touts who thrust knots of small snakes in your face. Stop to watch some veiled transvestite dancers along with a crowd of fascinated local men and quickly get singled out by the short dumpy dancer who asks me for a “petit cadeau”. I bung him 10 dirhams and run away.